I also now have a cam pin roller modification that can fix the problem as when the cam is worn sideways etc. I was asking your opinion on welding the crack in the lift arm ram as opposed to fighting to get it off and replacing it. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. 75 Tips Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just removed and straightened the control rod. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well Is the control arm straight? (Long) in the Tractors forum followed by comments. Welding is my call? Yes. Water is heavier than oil, so this condensation runs down and collects at the bottom of your sump (where the pump is located). I have watched you rebuild video twice and find it would be a great help if I needed to rebuild. "width": 200, It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. Tightening the nut increases the force required to move the lever. I'll let you know how I do. We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. HYDRAULIC TOUCH CONTROL LEVER. Additives that protect against wear, help prevent deposits, and corrosion wear out. I did take a look at it before I put it back together. Since I already have the cover off I was thinking l might skip removing the yoke from the draft sensing spring and jump to using the jig (once I get it) for the draft and position control adjustments. Hold the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant and gently tap the quadrant support plate forward or backward until both of the above requirements are fulfilled. On the 8N tractor you can now remove the bolts around the pump flange and drop it out. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. I previously posted a pic of the crack. Epoxy? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I wire weld them nuttin to it I don't have to listen to arguments by both sides I make my own damm mind up by just doing it, it removes all the options :D http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=869783&highlight=weld Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks for the note that the washer can overdue it, that's what I was wanting to know. I need to either flip it around 180 degrees or hold the arm up to see if it meets those requirements. Am I missing something? Many times you will find that simply replacing the worn pin will take care of the problem without any further adjustments, but you have to completely reassemble the tractor to find out if you are lucky or not. To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. If temperatures have been below freezing, the water will freeze. There is no way to explain why you were hugging your tractor with one arm in each inspection hole. I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? In this case the NAA seal will work better, but only for a short time. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. Thanks for the suggestion. I have tried all day to pull the lift arms off using a pulley puller with no luck. Luckily the tractor gets little work. Bending the control arm is a lazy man's fix for a worn cam follower pin. } Officers and Directors Hydraulic Control Lever fits Ford 9N 700 4000 8N 900 NAA 600 2000 601 2N 800 . None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. Go just a little too far and you will get several gallons of fluid in the face or running down your arm as you frantically try to thread the plug back in. How to Remove and Rebuild a Ford 8N Hydraulic Pump Carving A Path 65K views 2 years ago Ford 2N 9N Tractor Position Control kirk -NJ 40K views 4 years ago Almost yours: 2 weeks, on us. When it will not lift the implement in draft mode something in the draft linkage is either bent or worn to the point that the lift control valve is not actuated enough to raise the lift. My brother-in-law, who is a boat mechanic, is coming by tomorrow. Should the cam be smooth across its width?". }, When we cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor got a majority of its work dragging logs. I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. Regardless of the position of my quadrant support plate, I cannot get the valve completely open as directed in step 7a. STOP when the fluid begins to leak out of the bolt hole. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. However, when I flip the lever to "draft control" my plow will drop to the ground and the lift will not lift it anymore. It may not display this or other websites correctly. Look for leaks coming from above. Weigh those facts, and it probably works out that even a lightly-used tractor should have the fluid changed at least once a year. After yesterday I don't have a clue how I could get the ram arm out. How's this procedure Zane? }. Free shipping for many products! This is also usually sold as 80 or 90 weight. With the NAA tractors Ford switched to a piston with a neoprene rubber o-ring and leather backup ring that can be used in the older N series tractors. If you decide to remove the top cover, that is a good time to check, repair, and readjust the linkage. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. There is only one filler cap located on top near the gear shift lever. BE CAREFUL! There was a slight curve to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , what the heck . Small leaks tend to get bigger, but you should be able to judge if your leaks are bad enough to have to remove the top cover and fix them. }, The cam follower pin looks perfectly cylindrical. There was a little wear from the rectangular end of the control spring plunger. We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. Good adjustment can be done with a leak in the system but for good operation and in order to take full advantage of going into the lift it I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. A premium synthetic that says it "MEETS" NH-410B (M2C-134D) is much thinner than 80 or 90 weight gear oil. I'm hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more viable. I'm new to this forum stuff. It makes a big difference. "interactionStatistic": { Crack a drain plug and turn it out about half a turn. It's like a 10-30 multigrade motor oil thickness. Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it. Two large plugs under the transmission, and hydraulic pump, and one smaller pipe plug under the differential housing. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. Regardless of the position of my quadrant support plate, I cannot get the valve completely open as directed in step 7a. How does water get inside the sump? Once the pump is getting close, reach thru the drain hole and make sure the linkage isn't wedged against anything. Here is the pic. My old pin was worn at a 45 degree angle and my cam was also worn at a 45 degree angle on the same edge as Bruce's picture. It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? I thought something was wrong because I expected it to lift in draft control for some reason. Remove the top cover and place it bottom side up on the workbench. Once I get the lift arm ram welded I will proceed with the jig. "It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig". http://www.bramblett.com/zane/ ZANE If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. First, it causes rust and corrosion. Should the cam be smooth across its width? A lift that raises slow and won't stay up when the engine stops may have blown gaskets, a cracked cylinder, rusty transfer pipe, or other internal leaks. My email address is provided for tractor questions. Also, the draft sensing spring seat can be deformed by the implement bouncing up and down during transport over rough terrain. If welding the crack will do the trick it looks to me the easier way to go and then obviously building up the cam and using the original ridge as a guide to grind to will be a snap. Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. "dateModified": "2015-06-09", Slide the quadrant bracket toward the rear of the tractor (bolt holes are elongated). In any case, dont forget about fresh oil! Check the bearing. Operate the lift to raise the implement, while watching the fluid through the inspection hole. Be sure to have a good welder do it. It can (and probably should) be lightly honed to a cleanup. In cold climates the water can freeze and break the chambers in the pump. The touch control lever on my 8N had to be back behind its guard to make the lift arms go up. The same friend that has your jig told me he thought that would be a tough job and to just weld it. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. Start the tractor, press the clutch, make sure the PTO is engaged. First of all, this the 3rd 8N I've owned since '96. ", Wrong? Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? Dean It must be straight. You will want to do this when the wife isn't around. Looking at the condition of the fluid when checking the level can help indicate when the fluid should be changed. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. Not like position control mode where partial movement of the touch control partially raises the arms. My pic is attached. Our property is covered with Douglas Firs. https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS097-bolster-pivot-pin, no matter where i move the quad lever to it goes all way to top. Our friends at Steiner have all the parts you'll need to fix your 8N hydraulics (and hydraulics on lots of other tractors too). My lift works by itself but not with a heavy load on it.. No problems with cavitation for my live hydraulics external pumps. With about 800 pounds on the lift arms, the front tires start to come off the ground. 75 Tips I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. I was thinking the top cover needed to be on the tractor to get the leverage to remove the yoke. The 9N-2N linkage is different and not usually bent. Did you ever solve it? He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. Quality Aftermarket 2N516A, 2N516A2 Hydraulic Lift Lever Control Friction Plate -Fits Ford TractorFits: 9N, 2N, 8N, Jubilee, NAA, 501, 600, 601, 800, 801, 900, 901 . My lift drifts down when the pto stops.. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. "@type": "ImageObject", Check for lift cylinder leakage and for relief valve leakage as described in the questions above.